Want a Rich, Rustic Taste of Spain? Head for the Hills of La Rioja
When people think of Rioja, the first thing that often comes to mind is its world-renowned red wine. However, there’s more to this northeastern Spanish region than just wine. In the rural villages nestled among vineyards and mountains, you'll find family-run restaurants serving up traditional, flavorful dishes paired with wines rarely found outside the region. The charm of La Rioja lies in its laid-back dining experience, where locals treat visitors like old family friends, and the scenic drive to these hidden gems is half the fun.
Here are five must-visit restaurants in La Rioja.
1. La Cueva del Chato
In the tiny village of Canillas de Río Tuerto, La Cueva del Chato is a rustic eatery run by César Torrecilla and his wife, María Isabel Hermosilla. The restaurant is set in a converted garage, offering cozy dining spaces. The menu features hearty local fare like white asparagus in mushroom sauce, caparrón bean stew with morcilla, pork belly, and chorizo, and the standout chuletón — a bone-in rib-eye steak cooked on portable grills at the table. César’s family roots in farming are reflected in the restaurant’s traditional dishes, which emphasize bold, earthy flavors.
2. Bodega Pimiento
Located in Tirgo, Bodega Pimiento is a 50-year-old restaurant co-owned by siblings Marimar and Pablo Porres. Inside its 18th-century stone building, the duo offers a true taste of Rioja with dishes like patatas a la Riojana, morcilla grilled over an open fireplace, and succulent lamb chops cooked over vine shoots. The menu changes daily, and much of the produce is sourced locally, including house-cured meats and vegetables from their garden. Pair your meal with a local Caecus Crianza for the full experience, and don’t miss the indulgent cream-filled eclairs for dessert.
3. Casa Comidas Irene
In the remote village of Viniegra de Abajo, Casa Comidas Irene serves traditional meals in a quaint, 20-seat restaurant. Irene Sobrón and her team prepare dishes like timbal de patata, a flavorful combination of mashed potatoes, chorizo stuffing, and a fried egg, along with slow-cooked stews and tender pork meatballs. The menu del día offers exceptional value at just 22 euros, including three courses and house wine. For dessert, try the torrija, a sweet, honey-soaked bread similar to French toast.
4. Casa Tila
In the hilltop village of Clavijo, Casa Tila specializes in rice dishes, thanks to chef Manuel Ruiz’s love for the staple. Dishes like paella made with Albufera rice cooked in Rioja wine and topped with slow-cooked cockerel are a must-try. The tapas menu offers unique twists on Spanish classics, including sautéed artichokes in potato purée and salmorejo with fish roe. Casa Tila also boasts a carefully curated wine list featuring small, local producers.
5. Alameda
In Fuenmayor, Alameda is celebrated by renowned chefs like Martín Berasategui for its exquisite grilled meats. The restaurant’s specialties include 40-day-aged rib-eye steak, sourced from older Galician cows, and grilled hake chins, a delicacy bursting with smoky, salty flavors. Owners Tomás Fernandez and Esther Álvarez have curated an extensive wine list featuring over 120 local wineries, making Alameda a must-visit for food and wine lovers alike.
These family-run restaurants in La Rioja offer a unique opportunity to explore Spain’s culinary traditions in a relaxed, welcoming setting, all while enjoying stunning views and locally sourced, rustic dishes.
