36 Hours in Denver

Denver's views of the snow-covered Front Range are stunning, whether you're running in one of its 280 parks, eating at a restaurant with a view to the west, or just walking around visiting breweries and art museums, which is even better when it gets cooler. While the Rocky Mountains stay the same, Denver itself is changing a lot. There are a lot of new people moving in, which makes it hard to find affordable places to live. The city’s old Union Station just got updated this July; the 16th Street Mall, which is a mile-long area just for walking and shopping, is being fixed up with new granite walkways in a project costing about $149 million; and the new Populus Hotel, which looks like a slice of lemon-poppyseed cake and is focused on being eco-friendly, will open downtown in mid-September.

Friday

3 p.m. Sample art (and Western wear)

In downtown Denver, the Denver Art Museum boasts impressive collections including works by van Gogh and Cézanne among its 70,000 pieces. Meanwhile, the Museum of Contemporary Art near the evolving Union Station area offers a captivating journey through four floors of avant-garde and sometimes unconventional art, complete with a drink at the rooftop café (no charge for children; $14 for adults). Though M.C.A. is closed from September 1 to 20, the nearby Robischon Gallery will be showcasing vivid autumn exhibitions at no cost. Nearby, Rockmount Ranch Wear has been dressing celebrities and cowboy enthusiasts alike in distinctive hats and shirts since 1946. A short walk leads to Confluence Park, a serene spot with flat stones and intersecting trails by the South Platte River—lovely to look at, though not for swimming.

4:30 p.m. Chase cocktails with ice cream

Begin happy hour (3 to 5 p.m.) at Room for Milly, indulging in plush, mid-century ambiance while sipping on a Melo’s Sangria (red wine, brandy, peach liqueur, $9). Ascend to LoHi to enjoy cocktails and small plates at El Five, a tapas spot famed for its unique matzo-ball-soup dumplings and a breathtaking cityscape from its fifth-floor terrace (opening at 5 p.m.). Follow up with a visit to Little Man Ice Cream for decadent flavors like Space Junkie—a mix of raspberry, brownie, and marshmallow—at $6.75 per cup or cone. If faced with a long queue, consider Inside Scoop Creamery on Platte Street, offering 20 equally tempting flavors.

6 p.m. Explore ‘Denver’s living room’ for tapas and views

Union Station has emerged anew in July after extensive renovations, featuring fresh furnishings and artistic murals. The revamped Cooper Lounge on the second floor offers an excellent vantage point for both city vistas and people-watching. Dine at Ultreia inside the station, where the decor mirrors an art gallery with pastoral-themed wallpaper and a high-ceilinged space. For a cozy dining experience, ascend the ornate, tiled stairs to the second level and savor gourmet tapas, including bacon-wrapped dates ($9.50), mildly spicy shishito peppers ($10.50), and succulent marinated shrimp ($15.75).

7:15 p.m. Take in a scenic show — or just the scenery

Attending a live performance at the Red Rocks Amphitheater, a venue known for hosting legendary bands like U2, the Beatles, and the Grateful Dead, is unforgettable as the moon ascends over the city and foothills. Located in Morrison, just a 30-minute drive or 45-minute bus ride via the Red Rocks Shuttle ($65 round-trip, aligns with show schedules) from Union Station, the nearly 740-acre Red Rocks Park offers a perfect setting to stroll and enjoy the sunset, even if no concert is scheduled (park entry is free).

Saturday

9 a.m. Play and relax at the city’s biggest lake

Kick off your morning by visiting Rise & Shine Biscuit Kitchen and Cafe, nestled on a quiet street in north Denver. Here, savor a North Carolina-style biscuit in unique flavors such as feta-oregano or graham cracker, starting at $2. Afterwards, make your way to nearby Sloan’s Lake Park and enjoy a leisurely walk around the park’s large, fist-shaped lake, the largest in Denver. You'll share the scenic trail with joggers and cyclists, while admiring views of the Rocky Mountains to the west and Denver’s skyline to the east.

12 p.m. Try local favorite restaurants in tiny Edgewater

Wander into the small city of Edgewater, located just west of the park. Visit Edgewater Public Market, a modern food hall where you can indulge in a variety of dishes from empanadas to elk burgers. Enjoy a space filled with picnic tables and a central bar. Refresh yourself at Saints or Sinners? with a bowl or smoothie, or choose a hearty vegan meal at Konjo, which offers a plate of yellow cabbage, red lentils, and three injera rolls for $14. Nearby, try US Thai Cafe for some of the best local Thai cuisines, including pad thai for $11.25 and vegetable egg rolls for $6.50.

2 p.m. Chill with coffee (and cats) on Tennyson Street

Head north to the thriving Tennyson Street in the Berkeley area, where unique shops and cafes await. Visit Inspyre Boutique for its modern take on cowgirl fashion, and Feral, a shop specializing in new and used outdoor apparel. Spend some soothing time at the Denver Cat Company, a café supported by Denver Cat Rescue, where a $15 entry fee lets you enjoy a serene hour with cats (discounts available for children and reservations recommended). Don’t miss the historic Elitch Theater, known for its 1890s blue façade and rich performance history. Wind down at Convivio Cafe, which opened in 2022, and try a chocolatado for $5, a delicious espresso drink enriched with chocolate crumbles.

6 p.m. Go Australian, American Indian or Italian for dinner

Continue your evening in northwest Denver, where diverse dining options are plentiful. Try Two Hands for an Australian-inspired meal featuring fresh, healthy dishes like a salmon and quinoa bowl for $25 or a macadamia-nut-pesto cavatelli for $21. Nearby, Tocabe offers a taste of American Indian cuisine with dishes such as fry bread loaded with toppings ranging from $11 to $16.50. Alternatively, enjoy Italian cuisine at Gusto, located on the ground floor of a condominium overlooking Sloan’s Lake. Highlights include a summer harvest salad with Palisade peaches for $14 and the Amalfi pie, topped with lemon confit for $19.

8 p.m. Fill your night with sound and color

Cap off your night with a visit to the historic Oriental Theater, a 97-year-old venue with an old-fashioned marquee, located in Berkeley (ticket prices range from $10 to $500). Alternatively, explore the futuristic world of Meow Wolf’s Convergence Station, a large, immersive-art museum that opened in 2021. This vibrant venue is great for families, featuring interactive exhibits and a myriad of colorful lights—perfect for an evening of adventure. Tickets start at $50, and the venue includes a concert hall known as the Perplexiplex. It’s wise to use a ride-sharing service since parking can be scarce due to its proximity to Empower Field at Mile High.

Sunday

9 a.m. Greet the morning with mountain vistas

Begin your day with a freshly brewed cup of joe, priced around $3, at Honey Hill Cafe situated in the Park Hill area. Just a short walk away, visit Spinelli’s Market deli to pick up a hearty meatball sub for $15 or customize your own for $13—don't forget to add marinated onions and grab your complimentary fruit. Carry your treats over to the expansive 330-acre City Park, which houses the Denver Zoo, two serene lakes, options for pedal-boating, tennis courts, a golf course, and notably, the family-oriented Denver Museum of Nature & Science. While the museum offers an excellent view of Denver's mountains for a $26 adult admission, you can also soak in a comparable panorama for free in the park with your picnic. Coming soon in mid-September, the museum will introduce Nature Play, a no-cost playground featuring artificial box canyons, beaver dams, and a 20-foot-tall climbable bighorn sheep.

11 a.m. Immerse yourself in a cultural hub at a city junction

Following your stroll in City Park, make your way to the unassuming concrete square at East Colfax Avenue and Columbine Street. This corner may appear ordinary, but it's a haven for art aficionados, hosting the esteemed Twist & Shout record store, Tattered Cover bookstore—which has been a hub for the community for over 53 years—and the Sie FilmCenter, known for its independent films. This area, affectionately dubbed the Cultureplex by Patrick Brown, owner of Twist & Shout, is perfect for spending a laid-back Sunday. Explore the extensive record collection at Twist & Shout, unwind on a comfy sofa at Tattered Cover with a book and tea from their cafe, and cap off your visit with a movie at Sie FilmCenter, with tickets priced at $12.

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