Who Needs Barcelona? Five Secret Corners of Catalonia You Should Visit Instead
Barcelona now welcomes approximately 32 million visitors annually, grappling with the adverse impacts of mass tourism such as congested streets and a lack of affordable housing, partly attributed to the proliferation of short-term rental websites. Recently, the city’s mayor announced a ban on all holiday apartments by 2028, and during a protest, tourists dining on La Rambla were targeted with water pistols.
However, much of Catalonia beyond Barcelona remains pristine. The region boasts stunning mountains perfect for hiking and charming villages and small towns ideal for leisurely strolls and enjoying delicious meals in traditional restaurants.
Several of my favorite trips have been in Catalonia, including the Pyrenees, the inland countryside, and the coastal areas. It was difficult to choose just five highlights listed below. While these areas are not entirely unknown, they are often overlooked by the average traveler. Despite being one of the first regions in Spain to attract foreign tourists, many parts still offer a sense of discovery.
1. La Cerdanya
Ur, Er, Ger… La Cerdanya's unique place names turned me into a bit of a stuttering fool. These names, including Urtx, Ix, All, Age, Alp, Das, Nas, Bor, and Pi, are linked to the earliest inhabitants who spoke a language related to Aquitanian and Basque.
Despite the abrupt-sounding names, the landscapes are quite the opposite. This region, protected by the mountains, features sprawling green plains reminiscent of Austria or Switzerland. It is sunnier and drier than other parts of the Pyrenees but receives significant snowfall in winter. Spain’s first ski resort, La Molina, was established here in the early 20th century.
La Cerdanya is perfect for hiking adventures. The great Catalan writer Josep Pla described it as “a big earthenware casserole, set over the course of the river Segre... sloping lightly, slightly from east to west. It is not a sunken valley, but one that is reclining.”
Many villages are connected by trails, making it easy to explore on foot or by bike. Puigcerdà, the small hilltop town that serves as the capital of La Cerdanya, is a good base. There are also numerous small rural hotels and self-catering options throughout the area.
Where to Stay
The family-run Cerdanya Eco Resort offers diverse activities and accommodation options, including rooms, apartments, chalets, a campsite, and even yurts and teepees. For something more elegant, try the lakeside Villa Paulita in Puigcerdà.
2. Pallars Jussà
Located in the province of Lleida, Pallars Jussà features hilltop castles, lakes, and gorges carved by the Noguera Pallaresa river. Activities include canyoning, wild swimming, and whitewater rafting.
Highlights include the Mont Rebei gorge, the Vall de Fosca with its dense forests and glacial lakes, and the Valle de Boí with its World Heritage Romanesque art and architecture. The Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici national park is also nearby.
You can explore the area on a day trip from Lleida city on the vintage Tren des Llacs – the Lake Train – which operates from May to October.
Where to Stay
Rustical Travel offers charming traditional houses in Pallars Jussà, such as a three-bedroom stone cottage with solar power and a small pool in a secluded mountain setting about 40 minutes east of Tremp.
3. Costa del Maresme
While the coastline north of Barcelona is not a secret, surprisingly few people venture out of the city to explore this series of seaside towns. The Costa del Maresme stretches from Montgat in the south to the Tordera river in the north, including the village of Alella, known for its wine production.
Sant Pol de Mar is a lovely little town offering sandy beaches and rocky coves. For a relaxing afternoon, visit the spa at Caldes d’Estrac, where the mineral-rich water is naturally warm.
The region is also rich in modernista – Catalan art nouveau – architecture. In Mataró, visit Casa Coll i Regàs by Josep Puig i Cadafalch, and in Canet de Mar, explore Casa Museu Lluís Domènech i Montaner. If you're a Game of Thrones fan, the Santa Florentina castle featured in season six is a must-see.
Where to Stay
Vila Arenys is a smart boutique hotel in Arenys de Mar, offering a convenient base for exploring. In Sant Pol de Mar, the Gran Sol hotel provides basic amenities, but the Mediterranean views from the balcony make it worthwhile.
4. The Priorat
Located about 100 miles south of Barcelona in Tarragona province, the Priorat is known for its honey-colored villages, vineyards, olive groves, and almond trees. The area boasts two designations of origin for its wines: Priorat and Montsant.
A drive along the Siurana river leads to the Escaladei Carthusian monastery, dating back to the 12th century. It was here that monks first planted vines, and dynamic winemakers in the late 20th century elevated the region’s wine status. The village of Gratallops, overlooking the Siurana river, is home to more than a dozen wineries, including Costers del Siurana.
Where to Stay
Mother’s Garden offers a farmhouse and adjoining holiday cottage, featured in the Channel 4 series No Going Back. The stylish cottage has three bedrooms and a pool.
5. The Ebro Delta
Situated halfway between Barcelona and Valencia, the Ebro Delta is a significant wetland area home to flamingos, egrets, herons, and lapwings. Rice fields and mussel and oyster farms dot the landscape.
Visitors can enjoy activities such as kayaking, kitesurfing, paddleboarding, and birdwatching. The flat terrain is ideal for leisurely cycling to beaches and restaurants, which serve excellent rice and seafood dishes.
In Sant Carles de la Ràpita, Natura y Aventura offers various adventurous activities. A boat trip across the bay with Musclarium allows you to savor fresh mussels and oysters while enjoying Cava.
Where to Stay
For accommodation options in the Ebro Delta, look for local guesthouses and rental cottages that provide comfortable stays with easy access to the region's natural attractions.
