From Nova Scotia to Montreal: Driving Solo (and on a Budget) in a ‘Relocation’ R.V. Rental
Quebec City was crafted with an air of dominance. Perched on a steep incline overlooking the St. Lawrence Seaway and shielded by 17th-century walls, the city's alleys are snug and paved with stones — hardly the ideal terrain for a modern, sprawling recreational vehicle.
That was my thought as I mapped out an audacious solo journey in an R.V. from Halifax, Nova Scotia, to Montreal, cutting through one of the oldest European settlements in North America.
The notion of navigating colonial streets was not the sole hurdle I faced as I embarked in May, seizing a six-night “relocation” bargain for an R.V. hire at 39 Canadian dollars per night (around $28) from CanaDream, a rate significantly lower than their standard of 136 dollars.
Relocation deals from R.V. rental services are common when they need to redistribute their fleets to meet regional demands, offering steep discounts. For instance, Cruise America terms these offers “one-way specials,” with one such deal slashing 75% off a July journey from Las Vegas to Orlando. Similarly, El Monte RV listed discounts ranging from 30 to 90% off on one-way trips.
CanaDream, headquartered in Calgary, rotates its assortment across seven Canadian locations. Under such deals, the company defines the vehicle type, and start and end dates. Renters are responsible for covering the costs of fuel, food, and camping fees on top of the reduced vehicle price.
R.V. travel surged amid the pandemic as many in North America took to the convenience and isolation of mobile living. As a habitual light traveler, I found this mode of travel cumbersome, restrictive, and lacking in spontaneity.
Yet, my first experience with an R.V. over six nights and close to 800 miles was a mix of driving challenge, self-reliance, and an initiation into leisurely paced travel.
Driver’s Ed
Before even arriving in Halifax, I was familiarized with my vehicle — a 22-foot Deluxe Van Camper — through a tutorial video detailing the various gauges for electricity, waste, and water. My sense of duty intensified once I received the keys and began my voyage.
While compact for an R.V., the two-person Deluxe Van Camper was bulkier, longer, and less agile than any camper vans I had previously maneuvered, understandable for a vehicle allowing full-standing room inside (with an interior height of 6 feet, 3 inches).
This rolling residence featured a bathroom equipped with a hose-attached faucet doubling as a shower, a small-scale kitchen with microwave, stove, and refrigerator, and a rear sofa transforming into a solid queen bed. It also included storage spaces filled with removable window shades and vital supplies such as bedding, towels, and kitchen utensils, which added an extra cost of 175 dollars. A rooftop hatch and ceiling fan facilitated air flow during the night.
Embarking after refueling and stocking up on drinking water (the onboard water was non-drinkable), I was soon greeted by what I dubbed the “R.V. Symphony” — a cacophony of clinking dishes and chiming utensils mixed with the creaking of wooden cabinets.
Conscious of the increased braking distance required by the R.V., I adopted a cautious driving approach, maintaining a safe distance from the vehicles ahead, adhering to speeds below the limit, and opting for isolated parking spots devoid of traffic.
With each day, my comfort in driving grew, yet I maintained a cautious pace, adhering strictly to driving no more than 90 minutes at a stretch, with regular sightseeing stops to ease the demands of prolonged focus on the road.
Tidal Adventures
During my initial couple of days, I navigated around the Bay of Fundy, famous for the world’s highest tidal fluctuations, reaching up to 53 feet. Shortly after departing from Halifax, I was drawn to the Joggins Fossil Cliffs, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where ancient tides revealed fossilized remains of a 300-million-year-old forest embedded in cliffs towering around 100 feet.
Venturing into New Brunswick, my journey took me along the bay’s northern shore to the Ponderosa Pines Campground ($70), situated adjacent to Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park, a renowned site celebrated for its tidal-sculpted sea stacks.
My tranquil campsite by the lake offered standard amenities like electrical and water connections, alongside a fire pit and picnic area.
Roused by the morning calls of Canada geese, I embarked on a mile-long woodland trail from the campground leading to Hopewell Rocks ($15.85 admission).
The high tide reached its zenith shortly before the park’s opening at 9 a.m., enveloping over 20 isolated sea stacks—eroded remnants from the mainland cliffs—in water. As the water swiftly drew back, a park guide highlighted the rock formations’ human-like silhouettes, reflecting on Indigenous Mi’kmaq stories where an enraged whale metamorphosed runaway slaves into stone structures.
Following this, a scenic drive through countryside landscapes took me to the coastal village of Alma, located on the outskirts of Fundy National Park. In this quaint village, lined with eateries by its active marina, I indulged in a salty lobster roll and seafood chowder at Alma Lobster Shop ($29), enjoyed at a seaside table near sun-faded whale skeletons.
Allocating roughly three hours for Fundy National Park ($9 admission), I sought recommendations at the ranger station for a quick tour, starting with the lush, fern-covered Dickson Falls Trail. Further along, I explored the pine-lined Shiphaven Trail, tracing an estuary where historical shipbuilders crafted schooners.
Back in my RV, I prepared for a two-hour drive interspersed with bird-watching pauses, heading towards my next stop in Fredericton at Hartt Island RV Resort ($60), a peaceful spot by the St. John River where I spent the evening beside a campfire, observing wildlife as the day cooled into night.
Local Encounters
Fredericton, a city rich with 19th-century architecture, once served as a British military stronghold. Despite its challenging narrow streets, I ventured out early the next morning to visit the city’s esteemed Fredericton Boyce Farmers Market, accessible from 7 a.m. The Saturday market attracts over 200 vendors offering products ranging from local produce to ethnic snacks like samosas. My market finds included aged Cheddar from Prince Edward Island ($10), a fresh sourdough loaf ($8), and spinach pies ($2 each) from a Lebanese seller.
Before departing, I joined Cecelia Brooks and her son Anthony, who lead Wabanaki Tree Spirit Tours ($60) through Odell Park, a 400-acre preserve of ancient forest close to the city center. We commenced our walk by lighting sweetgrass to honor the towering hemlocks, some over 400 years old, and wandered the woods discussing traditional First Nations uses of local flora for medicinal and culinary purposes, sampling balsam fir tea and acorn cookies prepared by Ms. Brooks, of Mohawk and Wolastoqiyik heritage.
Ms. Brooks shared, “The elders teach that the Creator provided us with all we need.”
Quebec, Plugged and Unplugged
In Rivière-du-Loup, located on the southern bank of the St. Lawrence River, my camping spot at Camping du Quai ($39) was obstructed by a large festive installation featuring a massive Santa figure and a seasonal Christmas castle, which blocked the view of the water.
Desiring a clearer view, I ventured to Parc de la Pointe with locals, who had gathered in folding chairs to watch the sunset. This beach park, strewn with boulders, was a 30-minute stroll along the coastline.
The following day, after refilling the water tank, I drove for just over two hours to Quebec City, stopping briefly, and parked at Bassin Louise RV Parking in the Old Port, just outside the historic city walls. I navigated around the congested downtown area to get there.
Bassin Louise permits "boondocking," meaning RV camping without access to utilities such as electricity and water. As a solo female traveler, I secured my vehicle by drawing the shades closed, as did many others in the vicinity. The area was peaceful, though I had friendly neighbors in a truck camper nearby, ready to assist with a honk if needed (the lot’s website listed overnight parking at $75, but the local kiosk charged only $16).
For a fraction of what a hotel within the city walls would cost, this spot was unbeatable, located a mere five-minute walk from the tourist office. There, I joined a guided walking tour of the city organized through Get Your Guide for $26.
"Our guide, Hélène Lemieux, expressed her deep affection for Quebec City as she led our small group of primarily American tourists through its historic streets. She began with the city’s origins in 1608, established by the French explorer Samuel du Champlain.
Following the significant 1759 battle, the British assumed control, and Ms. Lemieux pointed out architectural distinctions between the French buildings, characterized by their small windows, rough stone exteriors, and dormered roofs, and the English structures, notable for their uniform, rectangular stones. She took particular pleasure in guiding us off the beaten path, including behind the scenes at the 17th-century Quebec Seminary.
She concluded the tour in a quiet back alley, encouraging exploration with a parting piece of advice: “If you spot a little passageway, venture in!”
