The Perfect Road Trip Along Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way
It's merely a short stroll from the parking area to Horn Head in Donegal—just about 10 minutes. Yet, within that brief duration, I've encountered a spectrum of weather: assaulted by a sudden downpour, dazzled by a burst of sunlight, and buffeted by fierce winds from the Atlantic that momentarily lifted me off my feet along the cliff's edge.
Below, the sea churns aggressively, hurling foam against the somber cliffs, the mist giving the illusion of the water being tantalizingly close.
This area epitomizes why they call it the Wild Atlantic Way. Spanning over 1,500 miles, this route traces Ireland's rugged western coast, showcasing dramatic landscapes shaped by the relentless ocean—from sea stacks violently shaped by the waves to secluded islands.
In North Mayo, ocean waters furiously burst through rocky crevices, creating spectacular spouts that shoot towards the heavens. Dramatic promontories end in lighthouses, and serene bays host basking sharks swimming in crystal-clear waters. Essentially, this journey offers a panoramic view of Ireland's breathtaking coastal vistas.
This year marks a decade since the inception of the Wild Atlantic Way, a route designed to draw tourists to Ireland's western shores. Its impact is significant, as evident from the numerous local enterprises that now bear "Wild Atlantic" in their names.
However, the roads themselves are age-old. The Wild Atlantic Way was deliberately routed to encompass the most picturesque coastal drives in the west, marked by distinctive, rust-hued signposts directing travelers to essential viewpoints, now celebrated as Discovery Points. The route isn't entirely straightforward—it occasionally involves detours to scenic vistas before doubling back. To fully traverse the Wild Atlantic Way, you'd need at least a couple of weeks, ready to navigate countless sharp bends. Alternatively, spending a week in just one county could be just as fulfilling, allowing for a thorough exploration of its coastlines, hiking trails, and leisurely swims.
For our journey, we've opted for a balanced approach: a week-long itinerary that skims some details but captures the essence of Ireland’s enchanting coastal scenery. Here’s how you can enjoy it too.
Kinsale to Inchydoney - Day 1
Harbour towns and twilight paddling
Start your journey at Kinsale, the charming entry point to the Wild Atlantic Way, just a short drive from Cork Airport. Take your time to explore the quaint streets, adorned with vividly painted houses, quaint cafes, and fine seafood eateries. Begin with a leisurely walk along the Scilly Walk to the Bulman for a delectable lobster lunch with sea views.
Departing Kinsale marks your commencement of the true Wild Atlantic Way experience. Stop by the Old Head of Kinsale shortly after, a stunning promontory that offers breathtaking oceanic views, enhanced if you manage a round of golf there. Travel past serene beaches like Garretstown and Coolmain, eventually veering inland to reach Inchydoney Island (inchydoneyisland.com), featuring a superb beach perfect for a swim.
For those visiting between April and October, consider a drive to Lough Hyne to partake in a nocturnal kayaking adventure (atlanticseakayaking.com), where you might witness the mesmerizing glow of bioluminescence creating silvery light trails in the water around your paddle.
Inchydoney to Kenmare - Day 2
Michelin stars and mountain passes
The coastal stretch of West Cork transitions from sandy expanses to rugged, dramatic shorelines dotted with tiny islands. Opting for a shortcut instead of the full Wild Atlantic Way to Kerry, visit Skibbereen’s vibrant shops and pause for a gourmet early lunch in Ballydehob at Dede, recently honored with its second Michelin star.
Proceed inland along the N71 to the scenic Beara Peninsula, with the ocean to your left and pastoral hills to your right. Consider the Healy Pass for a thrilling drive through mountainous terrain, or continue along the Wild Atlantic Way to Dursey Island for a cable car ride over Dursey Sound. Then, move towards Kerry and settle in the luxurious Sheen Falls Lodge (sheenfallslodge.ie) in Kenmare, overlooking the bay.
Kenmare to Spanish Point - Day 3
Sea stacks, Star Wars and stately homes
While the Ring of Kerry has long been a staple of Irish road trips, this route covers most of it, saving Killarney National Park for a future visit. Drive out of Kenmare across the Iveragh Peninsula, stopping at St Finian’s Bay for exceptional fish and chips at Driftwood Surf Café.
Extend your journey with the Skellig Ring, leading to rugged landscapes and the Skellig Islands, known for their monastic history and as a Star Wars filming location. Consider a boat trip to the islands if staying another night.
Bypassing Dingle Peninsula to save time, head towards Tarbert and take a ferry across Shannon Estuary from N69. If waiting for the ferry, visit Glin Castle nearby. After crossing, it’s a scenic drive along the Wild Atlantic Way to Spanish Point, where the Armada Hotel, offers coastal accommodation.
Spanish Point to Connemara - Day 4
Wild swimming and lunar landscapes
Join the morning sea swimmers at Spanish Point before venturing out. Visit the Cliffs of Moher, a true Irish landmark, and enjoy less crowded views by walking away from the main platform. As you head north, marvel at the Burren’s unique karst landscape, sprinkled with delicate wildflowers.
After passing by the Aran Islands, suitable for a longer visit, arrive in Galway before exploring the Connemara region. Here, the landscape is interspersed with lakes and islands. Stay at Ballynahinch Castle, a splendid 18th-century estate perfect for nature walks and relaxing by a fire with a pint of Guinness.
Connemara to Ballina - Day 5
Crystal-clear waters and award-winning beaches
Start by visiting Dog’s Bay near Roundstone, known for its clear waters, then follow the Wild Atlantic Way north. At Clifden, a detour to drive the Sky Road, offering stunning views. Continue through Connemara National Park, stopping at Killary Fjord for a taste of local cuisine at Misunderstood Heron. Enjoy the serene reflection of Kylemore Abbey in Pollacapall Lough, weather permitting.
Drive to Westport and along Clew Bay, exploring Achill Island and Keem Bay if time allows. Otherwise, head to North Mayo, making a brief stop at Downpatrick Head before ending the day in Ballina at the Ice House Hotel, perfect for a relaxing soak in the hot tubs.
Ballina to Donegal - Day 6
Surfing, Summits and Seaweed
Quickly enter Sligo, known for excellent surfing spots. Ascend Knocknarea mountain to see the neolithic cairn, then relax in Strandhill with a seaweed bath at Voya (voyaseaweedbaths.com) and enjoy local fare at Shells Café.
Travel along the Sligo coast to Mullaghmore before spending the night at Lough Eske Castle near Donegal town.
Donegal to Fanad Head - Day 7
Sea Cliffs and Blow Holes
Explore Donegal’s landscape of cliffs, beaches, and heather-covered mountains. Start at Slieve League cliffs, then head north, stopping for lunch in Dunfanaghy and visiting Horn Head. If concluding your journey, stay at Breac House, or continue to Fanad Head to spend the night near the lighthouse (fanadlighthouse.com).
The next day, depart from Belfast, Londonderry, or for a scenic flight, from Donegal to Dublin.
How to do it
When to go
The Irish climate tends to be most favorable in July and August, although these months can be quite crowded, especially along popular routes like the Ring of Kerry and Connemara. Opting for a spring or autumn visit is ideal, with May and September often providing the best weather conditions and fewer tourists. For those who enjoy dramatic skies and colorful foliage, planning a road trip in late October or November could be perfect. Cooler temperatures during these months provide a great excuse to enjoy the warmth of a fireside in the evenings.
